Shoe and method of making the same



All@- l 1933- F. L.. AYERs 1,920,338

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Sept. 16, 1932 l 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Aug. l, 1933. F, AYERS 1,920,338

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filled sept. 16, 1952 2 sheets-sheet 2 Patented Aug. 1, 1933 I SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Fred L. Ayers, Portland,` Me.

Application September 16, 1932 Serial No. 633,537

15 Claims.

This invention relates to shoe manufacture and has for an object the production of shoes substantially equal in appearance to welt shoes, but which can be made at less cost and with less expensive and less highly specialized machinery, and which even for the manufacture of a high grade shoe does not require the use of a channel or bottom filler. The shoe of this invention has certain of the characteristics of the stitch down shoe in that the' margin of the upper is turned out and may have superposed thereon a mock welt unattached directly to the innersole, but it has a much better appearance than the stitch down shoe in that no extension innersole appears, it is unnecessary toshow lining or stiiener material at the sole edge, and in that it has; the slight outward bulge of the upper above the welt characteristic of Welt shoe construction.

The shoe of this invention comprises an innersole which, however, has no projecting rib on its lower face, as has the Welt shoe, and to this innersole is secured the upper and lining materials, preferably the margin of the upper only being turned outwardly. This securing, due to the manner in which it is effected, may be done by a straight or curved needle chain stitch sewing machine and from the upper face of the upper margin so that the chain-of the A stitching is below. A narrow stitch line is thus the stitches in further beneath the bottom ofv the last than can be'done with a straight needle and makes it commercially possible in accordance with this invention to make high arched womens shoes which require a closer and' narrower shank than some other types of shoes. 4,0 An outersole underlies the innersole and upper margin and is fixed to the upper margin and if the outersole is to be attached by stitches the stitches are passed through the upper margin and the niock welt.

This type of shoe, however, is especially suitable for the use of permanent cement to fix the outersolev in position. In shoes o `the ce-` nmented type as heretofore made it as been the practice to last the upper over an innersole, cfmenting the upper margins thereto. The exposed margins of the upper have then been roughened to secure better `adhesion tothe cement. as when the upper is made of leather its smooth grain side is 'preesnterd outwardly, and to this roughened surface is .then cemented the outersole. This construction leaves the edge of the cemented joint. exposed in the crease between the upper and sole where dirt and moisture may enter and the extended edge of the sole acts as a lever arm to forces exerted on its outer edge, tending to open up this cemented joint. Moreover, if the roughening is not carried to the extreme -edge of the joint, the cement does not adhere strongly at this edge and if the roughening is carried beyond this edge, it detracts from the appearance of the shoe as it shows on the exposed portion o f the upper.

1Not only is it diicult to make shoes in this manner to secure a reasonably good joint, but the joints so made are not able long to withstand reasonably severe service. With the present construction, however, the margins of the upper instead of being turned in over the innersole in the lasting operation are turned out, thus exposing the inner or esh side of the upper to receive the cement. This flesh side is suiiiciently rough and porous to take the cement well without rougheningand the cement saturates n the upper leather and when hardened causes it to closely resemble sole leather. The outersole is cemented directly to this upper margin, or, if the lining margin is allowed to extend to any extent between this upper margin and the outersole it acts as a wick to retain cementY in contact with the upper margin as `well as with the outersole, so that in fact the outersole and.v upper margins are cemented into an integral structure whether or not the lining margin comes in between. The cement also secures the innersole to the outersole inwardly of the inseam. The edge of the cemented joint is unexposed in the crease between the upper and sole extension, being below the uppesurface of the extension edge of the sole, and bending of the edge of this sole extension does not tend, therefore, to open 95 up the joint. If desired a welt may be stitched to the upper margin of the cemented shoe, either by the line of stitching which unites the upper material to the innersole or,r in the case-of a mock welt, by aseparate line of stitching. The

Vuse of a Welt permits tooling ofthe sole extentacts with the inseam stitches, materially rein- 110 forcing and strengthening the attachment of the upper and other parts to the innersole. By securely cementing the outersole in position, it is able to withstand service better than if it were united by outersole stitching since it is not perforated for the reception of the stitches.

This application is a continuation in part of my applications Serial No. 316,839', filed November 2, 1928, and Serial No. 437,016, filed October 6, 1930.

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 shows in perspective an innersole prepared for the lasting operation.

Figure 2 is a section on line 2-2 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is view similar to Figure 2, but illusy trating a modified construction.

through the stiifened toe portion of the shoe.

Figure 8 is a side elevation of the heel portion of a shoe having an extension heel.

Figure 9 is a detail section on line 9-9 of Figure 8. x

Figures 10 and ll are sections similar to Figure 9, but showing modified constructions.

Figure 12 isa section through the heel portion of an innersole and upper assembly illustrating a further modification.

Figure 13 is a fragmentary perspective of the heel portion of a partly finished shoe using the innersole shown in Figure 12.

Figures 14, 15 and 16 are views somewhat similar to Figures 4, 5 and 6, respectively, but

showing modieations particularly adapted for the cement process.

Figures 17 and 18 are views somewhat similar to Figures 15 and 16, respectively, but showing a Suu further modiiieation.

Referring first to Figures 1 to 7, an innersole 1, shown detached in Figure 1, and slightly largerthan the'bottom of the last, is trimmed as shown in this figure about the margin of its shank and forepart portions to form what may be regarded as a lower layer as at 2 extending the full size of the innersole blank, and an upper layer 3 cut to substantially the size of the 'bottom of the last, the extension of the layer 2 forming a laterally extending feather 5 spaced from the upper face of the innersole continuously about at least the forepart and shank portions of the innersole. Preferably also-these portions are slightly separated about their margins, as by the cut 4, which acts to partially sever the portions from each other. As shown in Figure 1 the heel portion of the innersole may be trimmed throughout its full thickness to the contour of the last as at 6 though it may be otherwise formed as will later appear.

In place of forming the innersole from a single piece of material it may be built up, if desired, as shown in Figure 3, the upper layer 3 being formed as `an entirely separate piece from the lower layer and fixed thereto as by any suitable means. Such means may comprise a line of stitching 8 about the margin. of the layer 3 and if desired this stitching may lie in a channel 9 in the upper face thereof. This stitching, being slightly inwardly of the margin of the layer or lamination, leaves the extreme margins unattached, forming the equivalent of the cut 4 in the one piece construction illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. Where the innersole is made from separate pieces they maybe of leather, fabric or other suitable material.

The innersole thus prepared is secured to the bottom of the last in any usual or suitable manner with-the portion 3 against the face of the last. The upper materials including the upper 10 and the lining 11 are assembled on the last and lasted into position, the margins of the upper materials being fixed-to the laterally extending feather 5-while this feather extends laterally substantially in the plane of the remainder of the innersole, adjacent to the edge of the portion 3, and, between the upper and lower`faces of the innersole, the slit, 4 or its equivalent in the two piece innersole, permitting the parts 2 and 3 to be separated to facilitate the placing of the afiixing means closely adjacent to the edge of the portion 3. As shown in Figure 4 this afxing may be effected by means of a straight needle sewing machine, the needle being shown at 12, which sews the parts together by means of a chain stitch as at 14, the interengaging loops of which are positioned as at 15 on the under side of the innersole (see Figure 13) and inwardly from the upper materials. The pull of the needle on the thread is thus in a direction to pull the upper material tight against the innersole. The portion 5 extends outwardly sufficiently to form a support for the upper materials outwardly of the line of stitching, facilitates the proper presentation of the shoe to the stitching mechanisms, and prevents the breaking out of the needle or stitches through the edge of the material which would be likely should the stitching be effected close to the edge of the stock. As before noted, a curved needle machine may be used if desired, in a similar manner. x

The lasting having been effected, the margin 16 of the upper below the stitch line is left turned outwardly, and preferably the lining as well as the portion 5 is trimmed olf to the under side of the upper margin as shown at 17 in Figure 5, leaving suflcient of the feather 5 and the lining to reinforce the bend of the upper margin and to avoid danger of the stitches tearing out. Preferably unless the outersole is to be atltached by cement, the upper margin is stiffened by any suitable stiifening agent, such as shellac or the like, so that it extends out in fiat and stiff condition from the lower edge of the innersole.

An outersole 20 may then be applied to the lower face of the innersole 1, as shown in Figures 6 and 7, this outersole extending beneath the out-turned'margin 16 of the upper, and on the upper face of this margin and against the outside of the upper above the line of stitching 14 may be positioned a mock welt 21, The mock welt, upper margin and outersole are then secured together as by the outersole stitches 22. It will be noted that the inner edge of the mock welt 21 engages the outer face of the upper along its line of attachment to the innersole by the stitches 14, but as the chain of these stitches is positioned inwardly, the line of stitching on the outside 'of the upper is narrow so that it' may be veffectively covered by the mock welt so that no grinning of the seam occurs. When a toe stiff-ener is employed the toe stiffener will be lasted in with the upper and lining, and the margin of the toe stiifener, as well as that of the lining may be trimmed off before'the outersole is applied, this being shown in Figure 7 where the toe stifener is shown at 25 positioned between the upper 10 and the lining 11.

The heel end portion of the shoe may be nished in any one of several ways.v Forexample, when the heel end of the innersole is trimmed to the size of the last, as shown in Figure 1, the heel end portion of the upper materials may be lasted thereover to form a nailed heel seat in the same manner as in the case of the ordinary welt shoe.

Where it is desired to form an extension heel to simulate the appearance of a stitch down shoe in` this respect, constructions shown in Figures 9, 10, 12 and 13 may be employed. In the construction shown in Figure 9 the innersole at the heel is trimmed to the size of the last, as shown in Figure 1. The lining, and a counter 30 having an in-turned flange 31, are secured to the lower face of the innersole, and a layer of suitable material such-as 32 is applied to the lower face of the innersole, the 1ining margin and the counter-attaching flange, this layer extending beyond the line of the last to the extent desired for the heel. A line of stitching 33, or other suitable fastening, is then used to secure the upper l0 to the layer 32, the margin 34 of the upper outwardly of the securing line overlying the layer 32. The outersole 20 is applied to the lower face of this layer 32 and the outersole stitching 22 is passed through the outersole, the layer 32, the upper margin and the mock welt 21, which is extended about the entire circumference of the shoe. Suitable heel lifts as at 35 are then applied at the heel end of the shoe to the lower face ofthe outersole.

In place of employing a layer 32 separate from the innersole it may be made integral therewith, this being shown in Figures 12 and 13. When this is desiredthe innersole is formed about its entire circumference with the feather or extension portion 5 of the layer or lamination 2 and the portions 2 and 3 are separate from each other throughout the heel portion of the shoe. The portion 2 is bent away from the portion 3 so that the lining l1 and the flange of the counter 30 may be secured to the portion 3 in the same manner that they are shown as 'secured to the outer face of the innersole in Figure 9, and the layer 2, having its extension edge, is then brought into position beneath the lining and counter ange, and to this extension edge isstitched or otherwise fixed the upper margin l0, the layer 2 taking the same position as the layer 32 shown in Figure 9.

In a similar manner the innersole shown in Figures 12 and 13 may be used where a heel of the close type is employed, this being shown in Figure 1l. In this figure it will be noted that not only is the margin of the lining and the counter flange turned beneath the portion 3, but the margin of the upper 10 at the heel portion is also so turned and secured by the \on its lower face.

the dotted line 45. Where this form of innersole is employed, and a close heel is desired, the edge of the under layer 2 will be trimmed down to this line, to form the construction of Figure 11. Where an extension heel is desired it will remain as shown in Figure 13, whereupon it takes the place of the separate layer 32 shown in Figure 9.

If it should be desired to use a counter having an outwardly turned flange where an extension heel is to be formed, the construction shown in Figure 10` may be employed. As shown in this gure, an innersole having the extension or feather 5 about its entire circumference is employed. The stitching 14 is then positioned in the same manner as disclosed in Figure 4, but about the entire circumference of the sole, instead of about the shank and forepart only, and at the heel portion it is passed through the counter 40 adjacent to its, outwardly directed flange 41. The margin of the upper below the stitch line,14, as at 42, overlies this attaching flange. The lining and feather 5 are then trimmed 01T around the entire circumference in the same manner as shown in Figure 5. The outersole 20 is then attached by the line of outersole stitching, which extends entirely around the innersole, and the heel lifts are then applied to the lower face of the outersole in the usual manner.

Figures 6a and 6b and 14 to 18 show constructions particularly suitable for the cement process. Referring first tov Figures 14, 15 and 16, it will be noted that the upper 10 and lining 11 are lasted and secured to the Ainner-sole feather 5 and at the same time a welt 50 is stitched in position on the upper face of the out-turned margin of the upper. The feather and the lining are then trimmed off as shown in Figure 5, leaving the upper margin 16 with the welt 50 superposed thereon extending outwardly.' Where the upper material is of leather, as is usual, this leaves its flesh side exposed Cement of the permanent character used in cement process shoes and which requires the use of no stitches or other fasteners to withstand service requirements, is applied to this flesh side, which is sufciently rough and porous to absorb the cement, which, when hardened, gives to this margin the physical characteristics of sole leather. When the outersole 5l is secured in position by this cement the upper margin is firmly united thereto and the sole edge over its entire width presents the appearance of sole leather so that when the edge finishing operations are completed it is almost impossible to detectwhere the outersole terminates and the upper leather beings. It will be noted that the cemented joint isbelow the upper surface of the extension edge and below the welt so that any force tending to open up the crease between the upper and the extension edge, does not tend to tear the cemented parts away from each other as in the cemented construction heretofore used where the outersole is cemented to an in-turned margin of the upper.

Instead of trimming off the outwardly turned feather and lining only, the outer edge of the outwardly turned upper margin also may be trimmed oi suflciently to avoid exposure at the outer edge of the welt, as shown in Figure 6a. in which case the outersole 4is cemented to the lower face of the welt as well as to the exposed portions of the upper and lining and to the lower face of the innersole adjacent thereto. As shown the upper margin extends outwardly far enough lto receive the mock welt stitching in which case the trimming of the upper margins would ordinarily be effected as a subsequent operation after the trimming of the innersole feather and the lining. The welt might, if desired, be secured by the inseam stitching as shown in Figures 15 and 16 instead of being a mock welt. Of course, if desired, the lining may be outwardly turned beneath the welt with the upper as shown in Figure 6b in which case it acts as a wick to retain cement where the `outersole is secured by such cement, but because /of the usual differences in color and texture of the lining from the other shoe materials, it is usually preferable to trim off this lining so that it does not appear in the completed shoe.

Instead of securing the welt 5U by the line K of innersole stitches as shown' in Figures 15 and 16, a mock welt 55 may be employed as shown in Figures 17 and 18, which is secured to the upper face of the upper margin extension as by a line of stitching 56 entirely independent of the innersole stitching 14, or, if desired, no welt need be employed. The outersole 51 is then cemented to the lower face of the upper margin as much as may be exposed and to any exposed portion of the lining and to the lower face of the innersole as previously described with or without a filler therebetween at any part of the sole.

From the foregoing description of certain ernbodirnents of this invention it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications might be madewithout departing from the spirit or scope of this invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A shoe having parts including an innersole and upper materials, a welt having an outwardly extending upper face and secured by a line of stitching to certain of said parts, said line of Ystitching passing through said face of said welt, certain of said upper materials being lturned outwardly beneath said welt, and an outersole underlying and secured directly against said outwardly turned upper material and beneath said line of stitching.

2. A shoe having an innersole having a feather at its edge, upper and lining materials, means attaching said materials to said feather, the margins of said materials being turned outwardly below the attaching means, a mock welt secured on the uppel face of said margins by a line of stitching independent of said attaching means, and an outersole underlying and cemented to said outwardly turned margins and to said innersole and beneath said line of stitching.

3. A shoe having an innersole having a feather at its edge, upper and lining materials, means attaching said materials to said feather, the margins of said materials being turned outwardly below the attaching means, a mock welt secured on the upper face of said margins by a line of stitching independent of said attaching means, said outwardly turned margins terminating'inwardly of the outer edge of said welt, and an outersole cemented to said margins and to said welt and innersole and beneath said line of stitching.

4. A shoe having an innersole having a feather at its edge, upper and lining materials,

means attaching said materails to said feather, the margin of the upper being outwardly turned below the attaching means, a mock welt secured 0n the upper face of said margin by a line of stitching independent of said attaching means, and an outersole underlying and cemented directly to said outwardly turned margin and to said innersole and beneath said line of stitching.

5. A shoe having an innersole, upper materials, and a welt having an outwardly extending top face,'all secured together by inseam stitches passing through said top face, the margin of certain of said upper materials underlying said welt, and an outersole underlying said innersole and said margin.

6. A shoe having an innersole, upper materials, and a welt having an outwardly eX- tending top face, all secured together by inseam stitches passing through said top face, the margin of certain of said upper materials underlying said welt, and an outersole underlying said innersole and said margin and secured thereto by permanent cement.

7. A shoe comprising an innersole having a feather at its edge, upper and lining materials and a welt having an outwardly extending top face secured to said feather between the upper and lower faces of said innersole by stitches passing through said welt top face, the margin of the upper being` outwardly turned beneath said welt, and an outersole vunderlying said innersole and outwardly turned marginV and in direct contact with said margin and secured thereto.

8. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the upper to an edge portion of an innersole extending beyond its normal outline and substantially in the plane of the innersole and between the upper and lower faces of said innersole, the marginal portion of the upper being turned outwardly, trimming said l extension innersole edge, and securing an outerwith the lower face of said extended margin,

margin, and securing said margin and outersole together.

11. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the upper to an edge portion of an innersole extending beyond its normal outline and substantially in the plane thereof between the upper and lower faces of said innersole, the marginal portion of the upper being turned outwardly, trimming off said extension innersole edge, and cementing an outersole underlying said innersole to said out-turned margin.

12. The method which comprises lasting a shoe and securing the upper and a welt to an edge portionv of an innersole extending beyond its normal outline and substantially in the plane thereof between the upper and lower faces of said innersole, the marginal portion of the upper being turned outwardly, trimming 01T said ex 14. The method which comprises lasting and securing outwardly turned margins of upper materials including upper and lining to an edge portion of an innersole extending beyond the normal outline ofY said innersole and substantially inthe plane thereof betweenthe upper and lower faces of said innersole, trimming off said extension innersole edge and certain of said margins, and cementing an outersole underlying said innersole to said margins.

15. The method which comprises lasting and securing outwardly turned margins of upper materials to an edge portion of an innersoleextending beyond the normal outline of said innersole and substantially in the plane thereof and between the upper and lower faces of said innersole,l securing a welt to the upper face of said margins, trimming oi said extension innersole portion and the upper materials inwardly of the outer edge of said welt, and cementing an outersole to said innersole and to the exposed portions of said upper materials and Welt.

FRED L. AYERS. 

